I am a recently converted siopao afficionado. As with all my food preferences, the obsession was triggered by my inability to produce anything edible out of my own kitchen. Except maybe instant noodles but a daily swig of MSG is not a healthy way to thrive. Even for me, an eight-year dorm food veteran. I leave it to the pros (or whoever is willing to brave my stove) to provide me with nourishment. Not too long ago when work-related stress (or rather stress-induced laziness) prevented consumption of a proper meal, I discovered my fall-back -the lowly siopao asado from 711. Don’t get me wrong, I’ve eaten the stuff before just not with the same gusto as now.
Incidentally, I came across one of Jessica Zafra’s articles where she spewed encomiums over a certain Chinese restaurant of her youth. According to her, it once peppered the metro but have now dwindled to a handful of hard-to-find joints. She mentioned their menu was centered on three oriental staples: siomai, mami and of course, siopao.
Enough said.
I proceeded to ask Manila-raised friends if they knew where to find the reputed chain. All I got were several hesitant replies of Hindi ko alam e. Pero sabi nila masarap daw dun. Some have never even heard of it. Some were slightly more specific with their lips pointing in the general direction of Binondo (Why we do that is beyond me. Do we not have enough fingers? Does lip-pointing provide more emphasis? Remind me to investigate that one of these days). The hunt went on for weeks to no avail. It was eventually dismissed as one of those lost causes one is forced to live with. This devotee simply had to forego a visit to the supposed mecca.
Then as chance would have it, I found myself in a cab bound for the National Museum on my bestfriend’s birthday. We were to see Juan Luna’s Spolarium and while dodging vehicles on Quezon Ave, an aged neon sign materialized. I shrieked, MA MON LUK!!!
It is now safe to assume that the museum took a sudden plunge on our list of priorities.
At the entrance, we were greeted by that familiar Chinese restaurant smell. Across the large mess hall was a painting of Ma Mon Luk himself. Walls were strewn with framed newpaper articles written about how he introduced mami to the Pinoy diet. The structure is an obvious remnant of the 60s. As were the waiters who’ve been there so long, they can enumerate the menu while navigating the maze of chairs backwards to and from the kitchen with their eyes closed.
We ordered two siopaos and a bowl of chicken mami which were (in true old school fashion) carelessly plopped on our table. And darn it, it was well worth the effort! The siopao was nothing like the artificial lump of who-knows-what they sell in 711. You can actually taste the kneaded homemade dough. The mami, pure broth, no MSG. A little soy sauce and it was perfect. Zafra was right. The secret ingredient has to be that overall haphazard what’s-that-floating-in-my-soup ambiance. We seem to take with it the same daring approach we do with the tap water and carinderia food. No one has died from it so it must be clean and should we drop dead, at least we had a good meal. I’d say, with all that history, Ma Mon Luk is a shrine to the sturdy Pinoy constitution awarded exclusively to those who braved the third world.
And had he been there, I’m sure Juan Luna will understand why we bypassed his painting for steamed dumplings and a bowl of chicken soup.